Cape Dorset, Nunavut

We check out a lot of natural locations along our journey through the Arctic – seabird habitats, prime walrus viewing spots, caribou hunting grounds. But as great and important as all of these locations are, some of the best places to learn about the effects of global warming are in the communities that we visit along the way.

We’d already been to one community, when we landed in Kuujjuaq to board our ship. But today we visited Cape Dorset on the southern coast of Baffin Island. Cape Dorset is well-known for its Inuit art carvings and prints and the ship was a-buzz with excitement.
Our first stop today was an archaeological site across the bay from Cape Dorset. Thousands of years ago, a series of huts were built along the edge of a freshwater lake a few hundred meters from the Arctic Ocean. Today, all that remains are the dugouts with collapsed rocks strewn within them. After hearing about the history of the people that built the huts, courtesy of our resident mammal expert turned Arctic historian David Gray, we set off on a choice of hikes.
Still recovering from the trip to Digges Island a couple of days ago, I chose to head down a short, gentle slope to an inukshuk on the shore and sit with my feet dangling in the water, skipping stones. It was a nice relaxing time and I couldn’t help but be a bit disappointed when we were called back to the zodiacs. After lunch, it was off to Cape Dorset. The plan was to meet for a community welcome complete with some traditional country food (including caribou stew), throat singing and Inuit games demonstrations followed by a talk with some elders to discuss their perspectives on the effects of global warming.

Well, at least, that’s how it was supposed to go. Yes, we got the throat singing and Inuit games, but in addition to the country food, we were also treated to a fresh seal that had been caught and killed earlier today. I’d experienced raw seal liver on last year’s expedition, and this year, I managed to get my teeth around a seal rib. But my best amusement was saved for watching the students sample the various parts of the seal for the first time. Most kept it down… some didn’t.After the demonstrations, we were given free time to explore the community, instead of talking to the elders. Our group quickly dispersed, much to my dismay, as it felt like my herd of sheep was scattering into the wild. Some went and hopped up on junk food at the Co-op, while others went searching for souvenirs. Many were “kidnapped” by some of the local children, who held the hands of various students as they went exploring the town. One of our male students, Connor, was even offered three marriage proposals.He turned them down.This was a great community visit. But as amazing as it was, it illustrated to me just how much we have become a little floating community of our own. It’s been a week since we’ve all come together and the bonds between everyone has grown strong.It was especially evident when we said goodbye to our first friends – Peter Mansbridge and his son Will. It was a teary good-bye for some, as they had become attached to Will, who despite his younger age, made some close friends during his short time. However, based on my experience from last year, it is a mere fraction of the emotions that will be experienced on our last days.

But that’s in the future. For now, our community will have a day at sea tomorrow, with lots of activities and workshops planned. In the meantime, hopes of a full night’s sleep tantalize me... good night!